More Border Country

Nothing to beat a fine weekend in the Alps; placid, attentive drivers and dormant roadworks on a post-8pm Friday evening making the 500km separating Frankfurt and Garmisch-Partenkirchen - via Nürnberg and an Oktoberfest-ing München - a pleasant doddle in the dark. That's not always the case as the long, two-lane stretches of the autobahn can be lethal whenever there's a mishap and make all the difference between turning in at regular bed-time or only after an early breakfast the next morning.   

The current spell of high pressure over Central Europe has given us some fine days recently, this weekend being no exception, although the tops of the higher mountains were already wearing a light dusting of what looks like powdered sugar, with evenings and shaded areas quite cool, alfresco dining something of a hit and miss affair. 

Most trees give little sign of autumn yet as they had a relatively late start this year, but there are already flashes and patches of amber and red as birch leaves start to turn and creepers blush Burgundian crimson; as overnight temperatures drop to near zero, it won't take long for the landscape to colour in earnest. Once into the forests, there's no denying the Equinox as the multi-coloured caps of fungi sprout through the damp woodland carpet, the edible variety's banner carried this weekend by the Lactarius deliciosus, or Saffron milk cap, the Boletus edulis still a little shy. This far from home and a buttered pan, the mycologist's Laguiole and Opinel knives stayed pocket left and pocket right, the tiny Sony RX100 doing all the 'picking' in macro mode.

Feel at home here. 

After a visit to the cemetery to pay respects late Saturday morning and an hour or so pottering about the centre of Garmisch, with sekt and latte to help things along, we headed east past Kaltenbrunn and In Gerold, swinging right off the E533 at Klais towards the Schmalsee, direction Mittenwald. Sharp right onto the track just past the glasslike lake took us to a late lunch at the Berggasthof Groeblalm, its dining terrace hanging on the slope overlooking Mittenwald below and the Karwendel range to the left, the insistent jangling of cowbells an unmistakably Alpine background sound. From there through the woods and the fungi, a stroll through picturesque Mittenwald hard up against the Austrian border, mass in Partenkirchen's Pfarrkirche and an impromptu dinner at the 'Trastavere' on Hauptstrasse. A crowded but tasty find at the end of a busy day. Recommended. 

Ostensibly forecast to be better than Saturday, Sunday turned out equally fine but just a touch fuzzier - perhaps in keeping with Germany's election day, at the end of which Mrs Merkel won most votes but no majority and now has to trawl the opposition for coalition partners, most of them afraid to pledge their support knowing what happens to political makeweights over the mandated period: they simply lose credibility and disappear to enjoy Pensions without Power. Tough.

Heading, more or less, in the previous day's direction past the Schmalsee and Mittenwald, the lesser border was crossed around noon on the minor Leutasch road, various diversions slowing progress but allowing full enjoyment of a procession of sleepy villages into Telfs, mountains right, mountains left.

From there, the scenic 'high road', the Mieminger Strasse, twists its way towards Nassereith, under the Brunnwald, and snakes up over a (congested) Fernpass and its sandwiching, emerald waters. The Harley Davidson Club appears to have a season ticket here. Once over the top, the steep drop into Lermoos is rewarded with lunch on the sun-soaked, panoramic terrace of the welcoming Post Hotel with its views over Ehrwald and the Buchenwald, the Schneefernerkopf and behind it the Zugspitze, both imposing mountains marking the Austrian-German border, the latter Germany's highest peak and dominating Garmisch Partenkirchen on the other side.

Time to get back, pack our bags and hope for friendly traffic conditions. It must have been the day's polling activity that kept motorists off the autobahn and Munich's beer its drinkers busy driving other litres, as we made it home in good time, no holdups, no surprises.

Next time we head in this direction, it's likely all will be white in this part of the world. 

 

A Busy Weekend

An early, misty-Friday-morning Lufthansa flight to London.  The automatic dispensers not accepting cash, there's a long queue at Heathrow Central snaking towards the Ticket Desks for a Day Travelcard to ride the Piccadilly Line to.....South Kensington where, "Due to an earlier problem....." the Circle Line's not going anywhere, so it's the District to....Aldgate East, over the bridge and backtrack to Liverpool Street. The clock's running.

On a route ne'er used before, escalating to street level turns me out of the terminus in an alien place: where am I? Where's familiar Bishopsgate? With all the tearing down of the old and putting up of the new, London Wall might as well be in Beijing, but turning left, some 150 metres on, Sir Norman Foster's No.30 St Mary Axe, better known perhaps as The Gherkin, hoves into view and all's well as the City compass is restored, but what was earlier planned as a leisurely meander to make a Rubber Association meeting at noon, has been reduced to a sticky, drizzly gallop that gets me to Folgate Street with just five sweaty minutes to spare.  

Meeting over, duty discharged, it's a sharp left for the committee into the 'Water Poet' next door for sandwiches, risotto and ale: all red walls, gilt and seen-better-days leather Chesterfields.  

Sated, it's dodging the now settled-in and steady shower back to Liverpool Street for the short ride to Bank, Cheapside and Daunt's: not the most atmospheric of their London bookshop address but the signature selection's as good as ever, three hardbacks tempting, tempting, then winning easily. Feel very much at home in this part of the City having spent 25 years here learning how to.....ah, but that's another story for another day.

Done with The Law for the week, son Daniel cuts short my reverie and opts for the District Line to Richmond from where, two supermarket stops later, we're on the bus to St Margarets: Emily, grandson Edward, senior son Adam; family. Feels good. Rains all night, non-stop.

Tap's still leaking on Saturday morning but eases just enough for a 'perambulation'  with Teddy along the neighbouring Thames towpath, over Richmond Lock footbridge and into Richmond proper for a take-away, echt-Bayerische Currywurst at Stein's: yes, in Richmond not Munich. On the river, but summer's now a distant memory and even Border Rasen's pleased to go home to dry her nose. Adam drops me off at Heathrow on his way back to Portsmouth and a bumpy seventy minutes flying sees me home. Wish I could do this more often.

Sunday's not much better here, weather-wise: an evening with Peter Barnes's 'The Ruling Class' at the English Theatre tolerated only until the break, burgers at the Chicago Meatpackers winning the toss to round off the weekend.

Footnote: In these days of carry-on baggage restrictions and heightened security, travelling photographically 'light' is not a quality issue anymore; the diminutive Sony RX100 and Nikon 1 V1 with 10mm and 18.5mm lenses losing themselves in the bottom of my briefcase, weight unnoticed, shoulders unstrained. Sony recorded Bishopsgate, Liverpool Street Station and Cheapside, the tiny Nikon took family, River Thames and Richmond and if anyone frets about shallow depth of field or bokeh, don't: almost anything is possible. 

 

Border Country

Saturday-Sunday September 7-8

This was an early 'celebration' of the turtle adding another ring to its shell.

Heading south-west from Frankfurt late on Saturday morning and in lieu of a blindfold that might have made things a little difficult, the co-driver painstakingly fed destinations into the navigation system town by town, village by village to mask the ultimate target until, some 180km from home and under darkening skies, subtle changes in architecture and place names indicated that France was surely 'just over there!'  One could probably launch a stone at the border from elevated Kloster Hornbach, which served a terrace lunch that would have made even the portliest monk blush. 

Following a week of warm weather and blue skies, Saturday's offering of  drizzle soup was disappointing: what to do but back-track to Zweibrucken's 'Style Outlet', one of Germany's largest, to dodge the rain and stock up on trousers. As one ages, the more pairs you have, the better. One never knows......

In turn ruled by Romans, Franks, Carolignians, Holy Roman Emperors, French Republicans, Prussians, German Emperors, and a Franco-British mandate between the wars, courtesy of Versailles, the Saarland is not only mining but also border country that history has robbed of permanence, so it's not surprising that, pretty though the rolling and sometimes heavily wooded landscape is, it's also a little neglected, its villages maybe a little dilapidated in places, its memories perhaps not the best, many of them still too fresh for comfort.

Something over 75km due west of Hornbach, just south of Saarlouis and again hugging the French border, Überherrn in the Bistal is home to the almost-nine-hundred-year-old Linslerhof, one-time seat of the sporting abbesses of Fraulautern whose legacy is celebrated in today's stables, hunting school and, more modernly, one of Europe's most sophisticated shooting ranges. 

Arriving there in failing light on Saturday evening, we dined, perhaps fittingly, in the 'Georgstube' and spent the night in an outhouse so quiet that every drop of that night's incessant rain was heard clearly.

Sunday morning was a little too wet to dawn properly but a good, late breakfast set us up for a tour, direction N.N.E., of the Schwarzwälder Hochwald, the south-western part of the Hunsrück in the northern part of the Saarland. 

It's obvious from the slider at the top of this piece that, due to incessant rain, landscape photo-opportunities were limited to the more intimate variety over the weekend, but it also illustrates the marvellous performance of the Olympus MFT family of OM-D and EP-3 and, primarily, the 25mm Leica Summilux f1.4 that both bodies would like to wear permanently but still share comfortably with the very capable Lumix 14mm f2.5 and 20mm f1.7 lenses; a really high-carat glass trio.

To make up for the disappointing climatic offering, we found a little gem on the way back in Nonnweiler-Sitzerath, the Landgasthof Paulus serving up a memorable lunch and an unaffordable wine list: better to leave its stars in the glass display cabinet and buy another lens instead.